Ghost Ads Part I

Restaurants come and go, but sometimes their signs remain.

Rushmore tried and failed to make a go of it beneath the L tracks off Randolph Street's restaurant row. After Rushmore, there was Addiction Sports Bar also defunct. As the site prepares for its 3rd incarnation, I snapped the following pic before the last sign (literally) of Rushmore is whitewashed from existence.

O'Leary's Public House

O'Leary's Public House in River North: Any resemblance to the famed Missus, her cow or the Great Chicago Fire are purely coincidental.

Read my full review here: http://bit.ly/PYZYo

Paramount Room

"No crap on tap" is a bold claim, but this out of the way River West gastro-pub more than backs it up.

LaSalle Power Company

The “LaSalle Power Company” sounds like the name of a Public Utility. Find out this River North bar/rock club’s Utility to the Public at the Chicago Bar Project.

Iggy's 3 - The Third Time is not a Charm

When a bar’s business model works, its concept can be successfully copied and transplanted to other neighborhoods or cities. Locally, see Bar Louie and John Barleycorn. On the other hand, when a bar makes three separate attempts to make a go of it in the city, as is the case with Iggy’s 3, it may be a case of trying to force a square mug into a round hole. For a dozen years, the original Iggy’s was a fixture on Milwaukee Avenue, before closing its doors. The second incarnation lasted for 3 years in the Bucktown neighborhood, and, sadly, after an evening at their latest River North venture, one can only wonder about the half-life of the current location.

Iggy’s is clearly an establishment with an identity crisis. It is not truly a restaurant, and it’s not, by a long shot, a full-fledged bar or cocktail lounge. Black and red dominate the motif, with the requisite sock puppet photos from its past locations lining the walls. A small, crescent-shaped bar, with seating for perhaps 8, dominates the front room with several small tables flanking the bar, in a space that can at most seat 50. Iggy’s does provide a hip environment, but the overall vibe is one of style over substance.

As a bar, Iggy’s comes up short. With little space to mingle and fewer spaces to sit, Iggy’s does not lend itself to a comfortable setting for a round of drinks, particularly if the place is crowded. $11 martinis may be the going rate in the city these days, but Iggy’s does nothing to separate its offerings from the crowd. A small, though high-quality, selection of bottled beers are offered to those looking for something lighter, but Iggy’s offers no beers on draught.

As a restaurant, Iggy’s menu seems to be out of line with the atmosphere it is presenting. Appetizers run as high as $15 and entrees to $29, though meals are served by t-shirt clad wait staff who seem more properly attired to slinging buffalo wings. The ambitious menu, combined with the informal service, sends a confusing message to customers. In terms of taste and presentation, a sampled goat cheese appetizer was presented blandly and tasted about the same. Not one sandwich appears on the menu, which may be perfectly suitable for a fine-dining establishment, but it would be a stretch to put Iggy’s in that category.

Overall, Iggy’s is a cool looking spot that needs to decide what it wants to be when it grows up.

Rating: 1 mug

Editor’s note: A negative review is not something that I relish in giving, unlike a slathering Simon Cowell. But until Iggy’s rights the ship, if you’re looking for a drink in that part of River North I might recommend Clark St. Ale House. For a bite, the authentic and reasonably priced Café Iberico is a solid bet. (And by the way, the original Bar Louie is just a few blocks west of Iggy’s on Chicago Avenue.)

Sarge's: A New York deli

A visit to an authentic delicatessen is a requirement for any well-rounded trip to New York City. Tourists in the mid-town/Times Square area may be satisfied with the shtick and excess of places like the Carnegie or Stage delis, but for my money Sarge’s, located in Manhattan’s Murray Hill neighborhood, is the undisputed champ.

Open 24/7, and with a full liquor license (a rarity in NY delis), Sarge’s offers a timeless deli experience. The establishment is a literal depiction of “Old School”, having operated in the same location since 1964. A tiered-display of pastries and decadent cakes greets customers. An adjacent meat counter offers take-out options for all of Sarge’s meats and side dishes. The opposite wall, behind the cashier, is a collection of autographed celebrity headshots that span the life of the restaurant and act as a walk down memory lane.

Though the kitchen itself is not considered kosher, as a full diner menu is offered, Sarge’s serves all of the favorites in the delicatessen/”Jewish Soul Food” lexicon. Traditional delicacies such as a nova lox platter and smoked whitefish appear on the breakfast menu. Knishes and kugel are available as side dishes, and there is ruggelach for dessert.

Start your lunch, dinner or late-night snack with a steaming bowl savory chicken broth, accompanied by a choice of rice, noodles or matzo-balls. Sandwich options are many and include everything from corned beef and salami, to chopped liver and tongue. Ingredients can be mixed, matched or combined, depending on personal tastes. Of note, Sarge’s is one of the last delis in New York to make their own pastrami on premises, and it shows. Their pastrami sandwich is a signature dish that stands out in a city full of competitors. An order of a single golden brown potato latke perfectly accompanies any sandwich and is easily big enough for two. Wash down the meal with a homemade Green River or chocolate egg cream, and momentary Zen can be achieved.

Sarge’s is a quintessential New York deli. Stick with the comfort food and you won’t go wrong. When a diner next to us ordered the “salmon filet”, we were certain that he was not from New York and fairly positive that he was not even from earth. This is one meal where you can be forgiven for telling your diet to go to hell.

Launch Pad Tip: You’ve landed late at Laguardia and you’re starving, but don’t want to settle for the $11 Toblerone in the hotel room honor bar. Have your taxi driver take the Queens-Midtown tunnel into Manhattan. You will emerge at 3rd Avenue and 37th Streets, less than a block from Sarge’s. Even with luggage, it’s just another short cab ride to your hotel.

Under the Radar: The Orbit Room

Any exploration outside the heart of the city will reveal literally hundreds of neighborhood bars, otherwise nameless save the ubiquitous Old Style or Schlitz signs marking their existence. In a bygone era, these corner taverns served a valuable purpose as social hubs for the community. In more recent times, not so much. When one of these relics inevitably gives way to new proprietors, there is always a sense of anticipation as to what the change will bring.

The Orbit Room (2959 N California) replaces one of these venerable establishments and provides a much needed breath of nightlife to the Avondale neighborhood. Inside, the Orbit Room has been made over from top to bottom with classic cocktail lounge décor, consisting of a full-length banquette, tables and stools. The entire south wall is occupied by a vintage oak bar with a matching wood, mirror and lit-glass surround. In warmer months, an attached patio deck more than doubles the available seating space.

The vibe is reminiscent of Wicker Park of several years ago: laid-back, mildly artsy and without attitude. A seemingly bottomless and varied flow of music entertains guests without drowning out conversation. The full bar is complimented by a well-rounded, if not expansive beer list. And, in addition to a menu that goes beyond ordinary bar fare, the Orbit Room also offers nightly specials to entice would-be patrons and reward regulars. ($2 Schlitz on Mondays is both a fun idea and a tribute to the bar’s former occupants.) Area residents and curious passersby are encouraged to give the Orbit Room a try for a pint, bite or martini.

Rating: 3 flasks

Launch Pad tip: If you’ve over-imbibed, have the bartender call you a cab. Finding one on the street can be a bit iffy.