Monday, October 22, 2007

Under the Radar…Fonda del Mar

Any $17.95 guidebook can tell you the best Mexican cuisine in Chicago, and perhaps America, can be found at Rick Bayless’ Frontera Grill/Topolobampo. But this blog is as free as those wee samples they give away at the grocery store, so Launch Pad Chicago strives to take you deeper into the tangled and fascinating culinary landscape of the city. Follow me if you dare…to eat really good food.

My Under the Radar pick for Mexican fare is Fonda del Mar (3759 W Fullerton). Though clearly becoming a destination spot, Fonda del Mar remains largely unknown to the uninitiated, due to its “out of the way” location on the near northwest side. Look for a non-descript sign on the south side of a rather non-descript block, find a meter to feed and enter the “Boardinghouse of the Sea” to have the favor returned.

Diners are welcomed by informal bistro décor and an open kitchen that compliments the accommodating service and family-run atmosphere. Entrées I will leave for you to discover (isn’t that half the fun of dining out?), but for appetizers I might recommend tacos Ensenada, fish tacos served with a savory salsa of octopus, squid and bay scallops. And for all that is good in the world I implore you to try the corn tamales, an exquisite creation that just might be as good for dessert as it is to start a meal. (i.e. They don’t suck.)

Fonda del Mar is highly recommended for its charm, fresh food and authentic character. How do I know it’s authentic? As I found out upon my first sip, they even brew their coffee traditional way, with cinnamon.

Launch Pad tip: Stop at the panderia (bakery) across the street and take home some delicious, and ridiculously cheap, pastries.

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